
After hiking the Abel Tasman Coastal Track last year, we found ourselves catching the hiking bug and decided to tackle another of New Zealand’s Great Walks: the Routeburn Track. This time, we embarked on the journey just after Christmas 2024, walking from Te Anau to Glenorchy (the track can be walked the other way too). The experience was nothing short of magical and as it is with all adventures, it required some careful planning.
The Logistics: Planning and Organisation
The Routeburn Track is a one-way trail spanning 33 km through Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks. Being one of New Zealand’s most popular Great Walks, securing accommodation along the track is a challenge, especially during the high season. We opted to stay in the Department of Conservation (DOC) huts, booking well in advance to secure our spots.
Camping is another option, but we decided against lugging tents on top of the food, cooking gear, sleeping bags and clothes we already needed to carry.
We organised transport through Tracknet, which made getting to and from the trailheads seamless. Starting in Te Anau, the shuttle dropped us off at The Divide and at the end of the hike, we were picked up at Routeburn Shelter close to Glenorchy.
The Simple Comforts of DOC Huts
The DOC huts are a quintessential part of any Great Walk experience. On the Routeburn Track, we stayed at Lake Mackenzie Hut and Routeburn Flats Hut. Both offered simple yet welcoming accommodations, with bunk beds, communal dining spaces and basic cooking facilities. There’s no electricity and you need to bring your own cooking utensils, but the camaraderie of sharing the space with fellow hikers makes up for the lack of modern comforts.
Lake Mackenzie Hut, nestled by its namesake lake, felt like a true alpine retreat. After a long day of hiking, the stillness of the lake and the surrounding beech forest were a balm for tired legs. Routeburn Flats Hut, surrounded by a peaceful meadow and offering stunning views of the nearby peaks, was an idyllic place to wind down.
The Journey: Highlights of the Routeburn Track
Walking the Routeburn from Te Anau to Glenorchy allowed us to experience its dramatic landscapes in a rewarding sequence. Starting at The Divide, we ascended through lush forest before reaching the open expanses of the Hollyford Valley. The trail’s elevation and exposure mean the views just keep getting better as you progress.
A highlights were the beautiful Lake Mackenzie as well as Harris Saddle, the highest point of the track. From here, the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys are testament to New Zealand’s untouched beauty. We paused here for a snack, soaking in the alpine atmosphere before descending towards Routeburn Falls.
We were also lucky enough to meet a pair of curious keas on the way. These alpine parrots, with their striking green feathers provided plenty of entertainment as they hopped around and seemingly posed for photos. Their cheeky antics were a delightful reminder of the unique wildlife that calls this region home.
Would I Do It Again?
YES!!! This hike was the perfect way to end the year. It blended challenge with moments of awe at the beauty around us. Life on the trail was simple. Carrying only essentials, sleeping in huts and eating simple meals felt humbling. Being away from the noise of daily life helped us reconnect with ourselves and nature in profound ways. It’s funny how being away from the noise of everyday life (and cellphone reception!) can help you reconnect with yourself in such a profound way.
One thing I’ll remember for next time: hiking poles! I really wished I’d packed a pair. The steep ascents and descents were tough and poles would have provided much-needed support and stability. They’re at the top of my shopping list before our next adventure, because let’s face it—this hiking bug isn’t going anywhere anytime soon!
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