We finally made it to Tiritiri Matangi — and not just for a day trip. We booked a spot in the island’s bunkhouse (ages ago, they fill up fast!) and spent the night out there surrounded by birdsong, crashing waves, a beautifully starry sky and a whole lot of native bush. What a treat.
If you haven’t been, Tiritiri is a pest-free island sanctuary in the Hauraki Gulf, just a ferry ride from Auckland. It’s home to some of New Zealand’s rarest and most fascinating birdlife — and the moment you step off the boat, it sounds like a different world. Those birds there are noisy!
We joined a guided walk during the day, led by one of the fantastic volunteers who know the island like the back of their hand. It’s such a great way to learn about the history, the conservation work and of course, the birds themselves. We saw saddlebacks, hihi (stitchbirds), bellbirds, tūī, robins, whiteheads and kererū (NZ pigeon) in the trees.
But the real stars for me were the takahē — gloriously oversized and colourful. And we even spotted an elusive kōkako, high in the canopy. Its call is this eerie, echoing song that sounds like it’s coming from another world. Haunting and beautiful.
In the evening, we went for a night walk (self-guided this time), red light torches in hand. We didn’t spot any kiwi, but we heard them — their calls and the unmistakable sound of them stomping around in the undergrowth. We did, however, spot little blue penguins waddling back from their day at sea, looking very focused on getting home. No tuatara (native reptile) this time either, but it just gives us a reason to go back.
The next morning, we got up early for the dawn chorus. Totally worth it. Hearing the island slowly come to life, layer by layer, was pure magic. I’d be very keen to come back in spring, when birds are mating and the dawn chorus is even more impressive.
We left feeling totally inspired — so much so that we’ve since signed up as supporters of the island. The work the volunteers do out there is incredible and it’s thanks to them that this special place is thriving the way it is.
Tiritiri is perfect for a day trip if that’s all you can manage — the walks are stunning and the ferry ride alone feels like a mini holiday. But if you can, stay overnight. The island feels completely different once the day visitors leave — quieter, wilder and somehow more alive. If you visit, take the guided walk, ask questions and maybe even consider becoming a supporter too. It really is one of the most special corners of Aotearoa.
We’re already talking about going back.
For more recommendations, check out my favourite Auckland spots here: Exploring Auckland – My Favourite Spots.
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