Five days in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Stari Most bridge, Mostar, Bosnia — **Stari Most, Mostar**

A crossroads of cultures, colours and stories

Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of those places that takes you by surprise. It’s probably not at the top of most people’s list when planning a trip through Europe, but it really should be. Tucked between Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro, it’s often overlooked in favour of better-known destinations… which is a shame, but also part of what makes it so special.

We only had five days — far too short — but left completely smitten. The country feels like a true crossroads of cultures: Ottoman influences sit alongside Austro-Hungarian architecture, mosques and churches share the same skyline.

Its history is complex and often heartbreaking. The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo in 1914 set off World War I. Decades later, the 1990s Bosnian War left deep scars — the genocide in Srebrenica and the siege of Sarajevo are still vividly remembered.

It’s a place where East and West quite literally meet; add in mountains, rivers so turquoise they look edited and great food, you’ve got a destination that’s rich and genuinely captivating.

Sarajevo

We based ourselves in Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s old town and had everything within walking distance of our accommodation. Cobbled lanes, ancient mosques, crumbling Austro-Hungarian buildings, museums, bars & cafés spilling out onto the street — Sarajevo is full of atmosphere.

Our first morning started the way most of our trips do: with a food tour. It’s always the best way to get a feel for a place and Sarajevo was no exception — flaky pitas, bey soup, ćevapi (grilled oblong mince kebabs), burek (flaky stuffed pastry), baklava and strong Bosnian coffee, served with cubes of sugar and a piece of lokum (Turkish delight). It’s a little ritual and I loved every sip.

We spent our days wandering and visited:

the powerful Gallery 11/07/95, a memorial to the Srebrenica genocide
the Latin Bridge, where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, triggering WWI
the bustling bazaar, full of hand-etched copper, souvenirs and rugs
and the Tunnel of Hope, dug by hand during the siege of Sarajevo to smuggle people and supplies in and out of the city.

There are still bullet holes in the buildings. Still shell-scarred facades. The war ended 30 years ago, but the memories are close. And yet, Sarajevo doesn’t feel heavy. It’s complex and emotional, yes — but also full of life. Cafés are always full, conversations flow over endless tiny cups of coffee.

**Franz Ferdinand’s assassination spot**

One afternoon we took the cable car up to Mount Trebević — great views of the city — and walked through the forest to the abandoned Olympic bobsled track, now covered in vibrant graffiti and slowly being reclaimed by nature. Surreal and beautiful all at once.

And the food?

Standouts included the best pistachio ice cream ever at Marshalls Gelato and our final dinner at The Singing Nettle (Žara iz Džara), just around the corner from our stay. We walked past it several times before deciding to pop in and I’m so glad we did. Everything centres around nettles and other native plants and herbs and it was all delicious. Cosy, casual and one of those places that feels truly local.

We also managed a quick trip to Visoko, home to the so-called Bosnian pyramids. Are they ancient structures or just pyramid-shaped hills? Who knows — but it was a fun little detour.

Mostar

Mostar, with its iconic Stari Most, is probably the most photographed spot in the country and for good reason. The bridge is beautiful. The town is beautiful. But yes, it does get absolutely swarmed with day trippers.

We stayed for one night and I’d 100% recommend doing the same, even better, stay for two. The early morning and the late evenings were magic. Quiet streets, soft light, cool stone underfoot and the river sparkling below the bridge. It feels like a completely different place once the tour buses leave.

The Zeljanica (spinach and cheese pita) piping hot from the oven at Pekara Lučki Most was the best we had (and we ate a lot of them!)

The drive between Sarajevo and Mostar deserves its own mention — it’s breathtaking. Think winding roads, mountains and water so turquoise you’ll swear it’s been photoshopped.

If we’d had more time…

… we would have added side trips to:

Blagaj Tekija, a 600-year-old Dervish monastery tucked under a cliff beside a spring
Počitelj, a historic hilltop village that looks like it belongs in a storybook
Kravica waterfalls, perfect for a hot summer day

Five days wasn’t nearly enough — not for the food, the history, the scenery or the people. Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country that’s still healing, still rebuilding, but one that offers travellers something rare: a deep, moving, complex story told through its streets, its food and its people.

If it’s not already on your list, put it there. You won’t regret it.

Further travel inspiration: click here.